Kaohsiung: 書店喫茶 一二三亭(ヒフミテイ)

I wanted to visit one very peculiar cafe that I learnt from Selena, the writer.  So, from the Takao Railway Museum, we walked into the old Yancheng District of Kaohsiung. This part of Kaohsiung was modernized during the Japanese colonial period and many of which were still remain the same as old days. As it's very close to the harbour, as we walked, we saw some business very much related to shipping. 

With the address in hand, this particular cafe was not too difficult to be found, among the rows of old and new buildings. Once saw this very outstanding signage of "Takao Artistry Warehouse(打狗港都文化艺术仓库)", and an enlarged black and white photo of the above, with a cut-out in the middle hung on the wall, we had arrived!

However, as the entrance was kind of set-back from the building front and the cafe sign was humble to be seen, it would be missed.

In we went, and up we continue, the cafe itself was behind a door of the foyer upstairs.

The ambiance inside was calm, letting the music playing in the air while patrons chatting softly, or eating or reading. We were tired explorers, after a long days of fun. Once stepped into the cafe, I felt that we came to the right place as this seems to be an excellent place for us to recharge our energy. (I almost wanted to give up half way walking)

It was late afternoon, not crowded, so we got to pick a very nice corner to rest and munch some good food here. The cheese over the rice delighted the girls, somehow. On top of the pancake ice cream to make the girls happy, and two cups of coffee to make us revive, it was braised beef rice set that we ordered. Hearty meal.

I reckon, the exposed roof truss and the sand-flooring were the architectural element that been kept for many years. There was a bar counter on the right upon entering into the dining space of the cafe, where the baristas busy making drinks for patrons; whilst bookshelves fulled with books on one side of the walls was a feature for the cafe, books were mainly in Japanese or about Japan.

On top of the white and grey as the main theme for the interior, wooden furniture enhanced the Japanese zen of the space as if we were not in Taiwan but Nippon world. Kitchen was screened off by a curtain. I can only smelt it, can't see it.

The zen recharged us, there was a stillness in the air that allow us to have a good rest and dive into a deep thought. What was here before? How does the Japan related to this place, this cafe or the owner? How was the old being kept intact from the bombing of WWII? For what reason it was to recreate the interior, the ambiance from the past? How odd it was that a stranger from faraway land brought her family here to spent an afternoon and to immerse into the past. How odd...

Apparently this is one of the 40 unique book cafes from "Poetries from the Bookstores" in Taiwan! Many of the cafes are sensible to the environment, to the rooting tradition or culture, to the past and history and injected new integration of artistic and intellectual to the society. I have to say that, Taiwanese are pretty exuberant & creative bunch!

I didn't ask for its name in English. The best I get the translation from Google is, it is called Hifumitei. Would it be 一二三亭(ヒフミテイ) ?

I would strongly recommend this place if you have time, taste the Japanese zen, the past, and the food. Once we stepped into the cafe, it disconnected us from the hustle and bustle of the outside world, and allowed us to chill and relax.



Do read more from Selena's sharing here.

There are some books mentioned about this cafe as well. I later saw a book '慢行高雄：14種美好生活路線' with it as cover. It is one book talks about good and slow life in Koahsiung. It made me believe that, the attitude of Kaohsiung is unperturbed but sensible. 

Opening hours: 10am to 6pm

Nearest MRT station: Sizihwan (西子湾站) Station 

Official Site: FB